“凉月如眉挂柳湾，越中山色镜中看。兰溪三日桃花雨，半夜鲤鱼来上滩。”唐代诗人戴叔伦的这首诗歌，将兰溪的魅力表现得恰到好处。

　　兰溪建县于大唐盛世，距今1340年，那是诗歌的王朝。兰溪自然风光美丽，处处流淌诗情画意，所以历代文人骚客题咏甚多，留下了不少经典篇章。

　　相对于文字，如今这座浙中小城留给世人的是更具象的画面。从2018年上映的动画电影《昨日青空》，到2019年夏天热映的《银河补习班》，多部电影在此取景拍摄，兰溪因此成为文艺青年们的热门“打卡地”。

　　坐着少见的绿皮火车去兰溪

　　《银河补习班》导演邓超和俞白眉曾说：“《银河补习班》的概念设计师郝艺从两千多个城市中选中兰溪，是因为这里自然风貌十分优美，完好地保存了城市的韵味。这里深厚的人文环境还原了影片中的年代感，剧组所有人来到兰溪都觉得‘就是这里’。”

　　笔者来到兰溪作了一次实地探访，发现由于各种原因，这里在很大程度上保留了上世纪八九十年代中国工业城市的面貌，加上兰溪本身深厚的历史文化底蕴，和山清水秀的自然环境，非常适合现在热门的年代电影拍摄。

　　兰溪位于浙江中部的金华市，素称“三江交汇”“六水之腰”“七省通衢”，有“中国兰花之乡”之誉。不过要从杭州到兰溪，一天只有一趟绿皮火车。

　　对于很多人而言，绿皮火车的记忆应该停留在上世纪八九十年代。在高铁发展迅速的现在，已很少能看见绿皮火车了。从杭州兰溪，一天只有一趟火车T7785，16:08-18:50，2小时42分钟。兰溪回杭州也只有一趟火车T7786，7:08-9:51，2小时43分钟。这两趟都是绿皮火车。

　　更让人意外的是，兰溪火车站一天也只有这两趟火车。

　　兰溪火车站就在市中心，保留了上世纪七八十年代的火车站建筑风格。

　　候车室不大，但干净雅致，候车室的顶上还有一排排吊扇。墙上一侧是“黄山奇观”的瓷砖画，另一侧的墙上是“严禁夹带危险品上车”瓷砖宣传画，落款是1990年。

　　走进站台，边上种植多年的雪松很高大。站台也是白配绿的复古颜色，绿皮火车外面贴着“杭州到兰溪”的“特快”车次牌，车厢里，黄色座椅套配黄色窗帘。

　　1932年，兰溪站建成。2009年，兰溪至千岛湖段终止了客运业务，兰溪站成为金千铁路上唯一的对外营运窗口。但到了2016年，兰溪站仅办理兰溪至杭州的始发终到业务，也就是一天两趟“绿皮”。

　　一位兰溪市民说，兰溪火车站在上世纪八九十年代还是很热闹的，那时，终点站是千岛湖，但后来因为高铁兴起，兰溪站开始沉寂。现在兰溪年轻人出行，要么选择长途大巴，要么坐高铁到金华，再打车到兰溪。

　　没有高铁，让兰溪人出行略有不便，但这个很有年代感的“兰溪站”，对于踏破铁鞋无觅处的电影选景人来说，则如获至宝。因为像这样有绿皮火车的南方小站，放眼全国也找不出几个。

　　《银河补习班》里，父子两人出去旅游，有不少兰溪火车站和绿皮火车的镜头。

　　《昨日青空》的动漫原作者口袋巧克力是兰溪人，他笔下的兰溪火车站更是充满江南清新气息。兰溪火车站、铁路涵洞等也已成为《昨日青空》粉丝的“打卡地”之一。

　　这两趟“绿皮”现在也成了网红，几乎都是满座，吸引了不少年轻的游客享受一下慢生活。

　　老厂区和大烟囱

　　熟悉浙江历史的人都知道，兰溪工业曾是引领浙江的一面旗。

　　1960年，新中国自行设计的第一座大型水力发电站——新安江水电站建成营运。作为新安江水电站的配套，华铝前身——兰江冶炼厂落户兰溪。后来，电缆厂、塑料厂、化工厂、农药厂、机床厂、汽配厂、棉纺厂等纷纷建成。

　　计划经济时代，兰溪有着一个工业城市的耀眼荣光。对浙江人甚至中国人，“兰江味精”“云山金笔”“凤凰肥皂”“凯旋燃具”都是知名品牌，而这些都是兰溪生产的。

　　但到了上世纪末，随着市场经济蓬勃发展，兰溪的老牌国有企业开始跟不上时代的步伐。近年，有一些原本在兰溪市区及市郊的工厂迁出，留下了大量闲置老厂房。这些老厂房在很多电影剧组眼里，可是个宝。

　　《银河补习班》有很多宇航员在基地的戏，甚至在太空舱里的戏，都是在兰溪“老铝厂”的厂房里搭景拍的。

　　笔者来到位于兰溪城郊西路的华铝老厂区，也就是兰溪人口中的“老铝厂”。

　　对兰溪人来说，“老铝厂”便是当地的“杭钢”。从医院到学校、菜场，像一个小镇，最多的时候，员工有6800多人。不过，现在工厂已搬迁，除了门卫和零散的人员进出，只剩下巨大的空厂房和高高的大烟囱。

　　2018年陪同《银河补习班》看景的兰溪当地工作人员说，剧组要求的厂房要高而大，因为要搭航空基地的景。而最终拍摄的那个厂房让剧组十分满意，大叹“这估计是全国最大的摄影棚”。

　　笔者去了当时拍摄的大厂房。这个厂房只能用“巨大”两个字来形容，从头走到尾得花上10分钟。仔细观察，发现厂房里还有一条铁轨。原来铝厂规模最大的时候，这里有一条专门的铁路，用来运输铝冶炼的原材料氧化铝。厂房棚顶的设计也很有工业风格，别有一番特色。

　　厂房里还有《银河补习班》搭的几个室内置景。一个里面还留着“曙光十六号载人飞行任务航天员出征仪式”条幅，原来航空基地的戏就是在这里拍的。另一个是邓超扮演的父亲跟儿子居住的陋室的内景。此外，厂房里还留着几个“太空舱”的部件，以及“火箭运行信息”的示意图。

　　走出厂房，厂区外面是老工业区的特色风景，最瞩目的就是高大的烟囱。在《银河补习班》里，有一个重要的情节是，邓超扮演的父亲出狱后被人羞辱，且经济囧迫。让他重拾信心并赚到第一笔钱的工作，就是作为一个设计师，解决一个要爆破的大烟囱找不到爆破点的难题。如今那个大烟囱上还留着当时邓超爬过的木梯子。

　　除了铝厂，兰溪市区也保留了不少上世纪八九十年代的老厂区建筑。大名鼎鼎的“兰溪味精厂”和“兰棉”连在一起，“兰棉”也是计划经济时代的大厂，曾辉煌一时，2009年搬出市区。

　　小而精的兰溪古城

　　兰溪的兰江汇聚三江之水，水运曾十分发达，故有“千年商埠”之称。

　　现在兰溪市区延安路以南的民居群落内，有“探花”“忠锡”等多条小巷，完整保存着明清街巷的风貌。

　　兰溪古城2000年就被评为省级历史文化名城，其深厚的历史积淀，是不少电影选择在兰溪拍摄的原因之一。

　　在《昨日青空》中，不少情节都发生在兰溪的城南古巷。这些古巷让这部电影散发出浓郁的江南文化韵味。

　　在一幢幢高大的古民居之间，古巷显得非常狭小而悠长，估计只有一人能通行。两幢民居间有拱形的墙连接。走在青石板上，抬头看见白墙黑瓦间的一线蓝天，顿觉是一幅构图优美的风景。

　　距离城南古巷不远处，就是兰溪古城的标志性建筑西门城楼和城墙，沿江的600米城墙为明正德七年（1512年）重建。城楼十分威严，登上城楼即可俯瞰兰江。沿江依旧有不少码头，远处可见船舶往来。

　　电影《昨日青空》一开篇，就是西门城楼的剪影和它身边缓缓流过的兰江。片中男主角经常和同学们靠着护栏眺望兰江，聊天嬉闹。

　　兰溪古城保留了相对完好的唐宋古县城肌理和200多幢老房子。对于电影拍摄来说，可谓大大地丰富了视觉元素，增加了文化内涵。

助读

　　《银河补习班》

　　由邓超、俞白眉联合执导，邓超领衔主演。这是关于一对父子跨越时光守护爱和亲情的故事——20世纪八九十年代，在浩瀚太空，航天员意外失联，生命最大的绝境中，他回忆起自己那个最了不起的爸爸。

　　《昨日青空》

　　改编自口袋巧克力创作的同名漫画作品。讲述了20世纪90年代末，一个平凡、宁静的南方小县城里，几位高三学生在面对如山的学业压力间隙中，萌生的梦想、友谊和初恋，以及他们和大人世界的那道鸿沟。

　　（本文图片提供：CFP）

which debuted on July 18, 2019 and  which was nationwide screened in the summer of 2018 are two films that were set in Lanxi, a city in central Zhejiang. Some people are curious enough to wonder what Lanxi offers to fascinate the directors.

Deng Chao, lead man and director of , reveals that Lanxi was picked out of over 2,000 candidate sites from all over China partly because the natural beauty of the city is well maintained and partly because the small-sized city maintains a precious part of the industrial past. That is, the city partially and stubbornly retains the traces of the yesteryears even though most cities are various stereotyped editions of sweeping urbanized modernity. For various reasons, the city has kept a look of the 1980s and the 1990s, making it the best choice for the films set in that period of time.

Lanxi, or Orchid Creek literarily, used to be a boom town. The Xi’an River Hydraulic Power Station, built in the late 1950s and began to operate in 1960, turned the small city into an industrial powerhouse thanks to the cheap electricity from the power station. Factories mushroomed, bringing a prosperity unseen in history to the city. However, the industry boom in Lanxi did not last. The city soon went out of fashion as China opened its door to the outside world and went all out for modernization. In thy 1980s and the 1990s, factories began to go under, leaving a large number of industrial spaces empty and idle, ideal for shooting films that portray the past of the 1980s and the 1990s. In particular, the cavernous workshops of the aluminum factory are ideal for some locations. The tall chimneys of the factory still tower to signify the industrial dream and glory of the past.

Today, however, high-speed trains bypass Lanxi although the city has expanded far and wide beyond the old downtown and every inch of the new urban center looks modern. Many local residents opt to go to nearby Jinhua, the central city in central Zhejiang, to take a high-speed train to go everywhere. The city operates a slow-speed train painted in green to Hangzhou once a day. The old railway station retains an ethos of the bygone decades for many local residents. Pocket Chocolate, the author of  and a native of Lanxi, highlights the railway station in his original picture book published in 2014. The film adaptation features the station in the setting. Rare is such a railway station still operating in this part of China. Today, the railway station and a nearby tunnel are places that attract young visitors from all over China. Some visitors just want to take a short ride in such a slow-speed train to go back to yesteryears. The railway station plays a significant part in , too.

Lanxi retains more than some old factories and a trace of the outmoded heavy industry powered by the nearby power station. In history, the riverside city flourished for about 1,000 years as a trade center in this part of the province. In the old downtown in the south of the city are some well preserved street blocks in the architectural style of the Ming (1368-1644) and the Qing (1644-1911) dynasties. There are about 200 time-old houses crisscrossed by a network of narrow lanes and streets. Some lanes are so narrow that two can’t walk through side by side. Not far from the old downtown zone stand the West City Gate and a 600-meter-long section of the city wall, which was last refurbished in 1512. The gate and the wall section and the old downtown combine to enable people to imagine what a county capital looked like 1,000 years ago. This part of Lanxi provides a fine background for historical flashbacks in the afore-mentioned films.

The filming of  in Lanxi has made Rongrong Beef Noodle famous as Deng Chao, one of the best known film artists in China, dined out there more than 20 times. It is a husband-wife operation. The wife remembers exactly what Deng Chao ordered. The photos taken during his visits to the noodle shop are on the walls to brag and satisfy the curiosity of fans. The wife says that the publicity boosts the noodle business. Before, the shop sold about 100 bowls of noodle a day. Now, it is about 200 bowls. Some visitors even come all the way from beyond Lanxi to taste the beef noodle favored by the film star. Though it is just one of the 300 beef noodle operations in the city, Rongrong enjoys a brisk business largely thanks to Deng Chao, who directed the film in Lanxi.